California

[Links coming soonish -- probably Thursday night.]

If there's one thing that's golden it's California.

The winter of 2010/2011 has been exceptionally brutal to this soul. The chill arrived December 1 and the snow followed soon thereafter. The last weeks of autumn were hardly bittersweet; rather, bitter. I hate griping about the weather because it's such a default complaint for those who live in Chicago, but wow, this winter proved to be a real tough ride of a season.

About mid-January, I started in with despondent complaints to friends and family about how much I hated Chicago, its weather, its residents, the traffic, the stinky train, etc. About then we decided to make a trip out west to California to visit Naz and Jen and get away. We booked a trip for the last week of March, only because it would take us that long to save up enough bread to have fun.

At the risk of boring myself and the few visitors that still read my blog, I'll get on to the good stuff.

Wednesday, March 23:

Allison and I endured a delayed flight out of Midway, but we entertained each other by dreaming up wacky stories about our fellow passengers. "Hi! My name is Leonard Leonard-Leonard! I'm a salesman out of Dubuque and I'm just looking to sell you a handsome pair of thrice-pleated pants!"

After landing in SF, we made our way to the hotel in Soma and immediately went out exploring the hood. We tried to visit some Mexican restaurant on 14th and Folsom, but they were closed. We instead dined at Citizen's Band at 8th and Folsom, which was an incredibly good choice on our part. We shared vegetarian cassoulet, mac & cheese with ham, cooked greens, and eggs. Everything was very rich, but the portions were not so large that you felt bloated after. After dinner, we met up with Naz and Jen who had just arrived home from Hawaii and we made plans for Thursday.

Sleep was fitful.

Thursday, March 24:

It was slated to rain all day, so Allison and decided that we'd be better off spending the day doing indoor things. First, Naz, Jen, Allison and I took the MUNI to Brenda's to get brunch -- the bus was late and the rain was a near torrent. I was completely soaked, but I didn't care because I can deal. Brenda's is a small N'awlins restaurant with watermelon ice tea and OK coffee. I took Naz's advice and ordered a shrimp omelet, Allison had a tofu sandwich because everything else on the menu had eggs, Naz got fried chicken (amazing), and Jen, oatmeal pancakes. I got to taste all the food and was pleased that Naz gave me an exceptionally nice-sized chunk of fried chicken.

We then went on to SFMOMA and spent most of the day there. The exhibits were exceptionally good -- mostly photographs. Allison and I didn't gel with the exhibit about wine and the culture surrounding that beverage, but it was still interesting.

Naz and Jen had us over their house for fish and sauteed vegetables, which I washed down with 21st Amendment Black IPA.



Friday:

This was the day of gluttony. I prepared by going for a 3.75 mile run to the Bay to watch the sun rise. I couldn't sleep and I was feeling plump, so I sneaked out at 6:30 a.m. before the city woke. I haven't run in months, not since at least December. I'm also in really good cycling shape, so my cardio system can go but my running legs can't really keep up. Anyway, I ran pretty well and rocked some hills. I kinda forget how great running is -- I mean cycling's better, but running is pretty rad in doses under five miles. Any more than that and it's not much fun.

I came back, woke up Allison, and met up with Naz to get breakfast at Pinkie's Bakery. Naz and I both got spinach quiche; Allison bread and butter because again, everything else had eggs in it. Naz and I also split an oatmeal and cranberry cookie.

We then started walking. First stop, Jen's office in Chinatown. Then on down the hill toward the piers, where we ate In-And-Out (burger and fries, both animal style). Along the way I tried on a pair of $275 jeans that fit exceptionally well and sang songs about riding bikes at Palos (a theme during the week).

We then moseyed up toward Lombard and hung out with the other tourists, taking pictures of us standing in the middle of the second most-curviest street in the city. See this video to see the curviest street. We also checked out some awesome skateboarding and art stores. Allison bought some expensive clothes

Continuing on toward the consumption of calories, we shared an apple fritter from Bob's Donuts before going back to the hotel. After a short respite, we went back out again for Little Star pizza in the Mission. We got a regular thick pie with sausage and onions and a white pizza with lots of garlic. Oh, and a roasted garlic appetizer. Also, Ska Brewing IPA.

Then on to Bi-Rite for ice cream -- roasted banana and malted vanilla for me.

I think the total caloric consumption for the day was about 4,000ish, which was entirely negated by the fact we traversed all of SF by foot [http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=4392225 ]. The meals we ate we rather small, despite being rather rich. Hey, it all balanced out. I came home from the trip lighter.

Per usual, we crashed by about 11 or so. The day's activities again giving a good knackering.

Saturday:

Allison and I woke up early and got walking down toward the ferry building farmers' market, giving Jen and Naz time to sleep in. Along the way, Allison dragged me into the Market Street Mall where she wanted to look for some perfume. I did not enjoy the experience. At the market, we bought a loaf of fig bread, which as a lover of figs, I found pretty much incredible. Allison doesn't like figs so much, so she was less enthralled with the loaf. Naz met us down at the market and made us stand in line to buy a pork sandwich from Roli Roti. Greasy, flavorful, and filling -- pretty much one of the best sandwiches I've ever had.

In the afternoon, we worked off the Roli Roti with a ride to Heron's Head to meet Corey and Judah. Sunshine and light breeze on the way out; a quick downpour on the point; sunshine and light breezes on the way back. SF's weather is a strange animal and I love it.

Dinner was Indian/Pakistani, aloo mater with some mano lassi for me.



Sunday:

It was an early morning ride to Golden Gate Park with Naz and Allison in preparation for a burrito feast in celebration of Judah's daughter's and Naz's birthday. I ate a burrito, half a quesadilla, a taco, and drank a coke. It was gluttonous and marvelous.



In the afternoon, I met with former HAC teammate and friend Adrian Silva, who moved to SF in the fall of 2010. Talking with him over a couple of beers at Brainwash, it was clear that the SF life was a dream and worth the financial struggle. He told me about the bike tours he's been on, the culture of the city, all of it. He wasn't making much, but it was enough to live the dream. It was inspiring.



Monday:

Allison and I drove up Highway 101 to Rohnert Park to visit my uncle Bruce and aunt Cheryl. In a rented Honda Civic (my, how Honda has slipped), we made the 40-mile drive in the early morning to Wine Country. Bruce recently had a partial hip replacement because the damage of numerous motorcycle crashes and falls over the years had finally caused the joint to give up. When Allison and I planned our trip to California, we knew it would be tenuous whether we would be able to see Bruce and Cheryl, but Sunday afternoon he urged us to come up and visit, saying, "I've been stuck in the house for weeks recuperating. Get me outta here!"

So we did and it was so well worth it.

Allison and I got to their house by about 9:30 and had coffee and muffins before heading up to Dry Creek, where their winery [http://pechmerlewinery.wordpress.com/] is located. Uncle Bruce wasn't moving too well, but he was determined to get out and show us around. Before leaving, Cheryl packed up a picnic basket with fried chicken, cheese, chocolates, fruit, etc. for us to enjoy after leaving the winery.

We got up to the winery in short order due to the utter negligence of posted speed limits. The tasting was pretty great -- the winemaker John Pepe gave us a tour of a number of vintages, some ready to be bottled, others in need of time. We were given three bottles to take along: a cabernet, a sauvignon blanc, and a chardonnay. Outside were some extremely cool Lamborghini tractors, which were slowly giving in to time and ferrous oxide.

We then drove over to the actual Pech Merle facility, which is still just a narrow tract of land that will eventually receive a tasting room, production line, and storage area. Also, the land is home to a 250+ year-old oak that is one of the more magnificent things I've ever seen.



We parted ways after taking a tour of the land, heading down the 101 for a bit before branching off to drive down the Russian River. During my last trip to California, Bruce and I took his Porsche 911 convertible, which is among the last of the air-cooled generation, for a spirited
drive through the narrow, curvy roads snaking through the redwood forests. It was an incredible adventure and I was determined to give it a go with the Honda. Heading toward Occidental on the Bohemian Highway, the curves started giving Allison the heaves, and I, being unsympathetic to those with sicky stomachs, pressed on, trying to hit each apex nicely. She then accused me of being mean because of my hustling of the car, so I passed on the wheel to her. Her breaking moment was when I nearly hit a UPS truck head-on on a blind corner, or so she says (I maintain that there was a good 3-4 inches between us.)



By now it was 3 p.m. and we were starving, since all we'd eaten that day were a few muffins and some wine. Coming down Coleman Valley Road, we pulled off at a good spot, unpacked the food. After eating the fried chicken, some ripe pears, and gouda, I finally got around to proposing to the girl. The most awkward, yet great, experience ever; fantastic and horrible. We took some photos of ourselves cavorting about the field and then got driving back to the city. About time, huh? It only took me 6 3/4 years.





Driving down Highway 1 was one of the more memorable experiences of the trip. Tracing the edge of the coast, the highway would swoop up and down with the elevation, affording stunning views of small-town coastal California. Cyclists abounded and with each rider we passed, I sighed with an envious heart. I tried to check out Black Mountain Cycles, but they were closed. I've been following their blog for some time now and I love all that they do -- lots of steel classics and modern bikes framed within that classical steel tradition.

Dinner that night was at B-Star in the Inner Richmond, which was an amazing meal. We celebrated Naz's birthday in style -- well, Naz and Jen were styling. Allison and I looked like hoodlums, matching in black hoodies and worn blue jeans. After dinner, we wandered over to Green Apple books and I bought a copy of the "Kindly Ones" for $3. Dessert was a crepe at Genki's. Much like 2009's experience, I was completely and sickeningly stuffed afterward.

After walking around a bit to stretch the legs and help the food digest, we drove back to the 'hood, packed some of our stuff, and went to bed.

Tuesday:

Coffee at Sightglass, a short walk around the neighborhood, and a long day of travel. I had a great seatmate on the flight from San Diego (the layover spot) to Chicago. The Orange Line ride home sucked. Also, I made the mistake of not taking a day off after travel -- I felt miserable at 6 a.m. Wednesday morning, when I woke to return to the office.